Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA2008CSX BASE, K20Z1REPAIR AND DIAGNOSISBODY & FRAMEWINDOWSPOWER WINDOWSMASTER SWITCH INPUT TEST
2008 Acura CSX Base, K20Z1
Master Switch Input Test
2008 Acura CSX Base, K20Z1SECTION Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations.
- Remove the master switch (A).
- Disconnect the 22P connector (B) from the master switch.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the connector.
- If a test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty; replace it.
- With the master switch still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.TEST CONDITION CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 9 GRN Connect the No. 4 and the No. 9 terminals, and No. 10 and No. 11 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open in the wire
10 YEL Connect the No. 4 and the No. 10 terminals, and No. 9 and No. 11 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation: The window should go up. 1 ORN Connect the No. 3 and the No. 2 terminals, and No. 1 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check front passenger's power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- Faulty front passenger's power window switch
- An open in the wire
2 BRN Connect the No. 3 and the No. 1 terminals, and No. 2 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check front passenger's power window motor operation: The window should go up. 13 LT BLU Connect the No. 20 and the No. 14 terminals, and No. 13 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check right rear power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty right rear power window motor
- Faulty right rear power window switch
- An open in the wire
14 RED Connect the No. 20 and the No. 13 terminals, and No. 14 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check right rear power window motor operation: The window should go up. 21 PUR Connect the No. 15 and the No. 21 terminals, and No. 22 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check left rear power window motor operation: The window should go down. - Faulty left rear power window motor
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- An open in the wire
22 GRN Connect the No. 15 and the No. 22 terminals, and No. 21 and No. 12 terminals momentarily with jumper wires Check left rear power window motor operation: The window should go up.
- Reconnect the 22P connector to the power window master switch. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.TEST CONDITION CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 3 GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 30 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty MICU
- An open in the wire
4 WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
15 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 32 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty MICU
- An open in the wire
20 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 33 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty MICU
- An open in the wire
7 BRN Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.5 V. - Poor ground (G503)
- An open in the wire
11 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.5 V. - Poor ground (G503)
- An open in the wire
12 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.5 V. - Poor ground (G503)
- An open in the wire
16 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty power window master switch
- A short to around in the wire
5 PNK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window switch moving up or down Check for voltage between the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals: There should be 0 V-about 5 V - 0 V- about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter should reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's window motor
- An open in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
6 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window switch moving up or down Check for voltage between the No. 6 and No. 7 terminals: There should be 0 V-about 5 V - 0 V-about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter should reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
- Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNITΒ ).
RENDER: 1.0x
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.