Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA2003MDX TOURINGREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISBODY & FRAMEWINDOWSPOWER WINDOWSPOWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST
2003 Acura MDX Touring
Power Window Control Unit Input Test
2003 Acura MDX TouringSECTION Power Window Control Unit Input Test
- Remove the driver's door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect the 18P connector (A) from the power window control unit (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED)
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 1 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. - Poor ground (G601)
- An open in the wire
8 WHT/BLU Under all conditions(1) Check for voltage to ground on terminal 7: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 8 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood subfuse box
- An open in the wire
7 GRN/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) and passenger's multiplex terminal A12 connected to battery voltage Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 15 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- An open in the wire
A12(2) Fuse/relay box cavity 13 BLK/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch UP Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty power window master switch
- An open in the wire
11 YEL/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch AUTO UP Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch AUTO DOWN 15 BLU/ORN Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch DOWN 4 BLU/GRN Driver's window switch DOWN Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. - Poor ground (G401, G601)
- Faulty power window master switch
- An open in the wire
4 BLU/GRN Driver's window switch OFF Check for continuity between the No. 4 and No. 14 terminals: There should be continuity. - Faulty power window master switch
- An open in the wire
14 BLU/ORN 3 RED Connect the battery power to the No. 12 (+) and ground the No. 3 (-) terminals Check the driver's window motor: It should run (the window moves down). - Faulty power window motor
- An open in the wire
12 GRN Connect the battery power to the No. 3 (+) and ground the No. 12 (-) terminals Check the driver's window motor: It should run (the window moves up). - Faulty power window motor
- An open in the wire
(1) Make sure the driver's door harness is connected (2) Passenger's multiplex control unit connector A
- Reconnect the 18P connector to the power window control unit and reconnect the passenger's multiplex control unit, then make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it.POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTORS RECONNECTED)
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 17 GRN/YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage between the No. 17 (+) and No. 9 (-) terminals: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty power window motor
- Faulty pulser
- An open in the wire
- Faulty power window control unit
9 YEL/BLU 5 GRN/RED While operating the driver's window switch Check for voltage between the No. 5 (+) and No. 9 (-) terminals: There should be pulse voltage 0-5 V (an analog voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately; a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage of about 2.5 V). 16 YEL/WHT While operating the driver's window switch Check for voltage between the No. 16 (+) and No. 9 (-) terminals: There should be pulse voltage 0-5 V (an analog voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately; a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage of about 2.5 V). 17 GRN/YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage between terminal No. 17 and body ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty power window control unit
- Short to ground
- Faulty power window motor
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.