Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Diagnosis And Testing - Compressor Clutch Relay
The compressor clutch relay (Fig 1 ) is located in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), which is in the engine compartment near the battery. See the fuse and relay layout map molded into the inner surface of the IPM cover for compressor clutch relay identification and location. Remove the relay from the IPM to perform the following test:
- A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
- Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 +/- 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
- Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86. There should now be continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING to perform further diagnosis of the relay circuits. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.