Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSSCION2010TC L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE)REPAIR AND DIAGNOSISMAINTENANCEFLUIDSREFRIGERANTSERVICE AND REPAIR
2010 Scion tC L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE)
Refrigerant: Service and Repair
2010 Scion tC L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE)SECTION Service and Repair
AIR CONDITIONING: REFRIGERANT: REPLACEMENT
1. DISCHARGE REFRIGERANT FROM REFRIGERATION SYSTEM
(a) Start up the engine.
(b) A/C switch is ON.
(c) Operate the cooler compressor with an engine speed of approximately 1,000 rpm for 5 to 6 minutes to circulate the refrigerant and collect the compressor oil remaining in each component into the cooler compressor.
(d) Stop the engine.
(e) Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system using a refrigerant recovery unit.
2. CHARGE REFRIGERANT
(a) Perform vacuum purging using a vacuum pump.
(b) Charge refrigerant HFC-134a (R134a).
Standard:
430 +-30 g (15.2 +-1.1 oz.)
SST : 09985-20010
09985-02010
09985-02050
09985-02060
09985-02070
09985-02080
09985-02090
09985-02110
09985-02130
09985-02140
09985-02150
NOTICE:
* Do not operate the cooler compressor before charging refrigerant as the cooler compressor will not work properly without any refrigerant, and will overheat.
* Approximately 100 g (3.53 oz.) of refrigerant may need to be charged after bubbles disappear. The refrigerant amount should be checked by measuring its quantity, and not with the sight glass.
3. WARM UP ENGINE
(a) Warm up the engine at less than 1,850 rpm for 2 minutes or more after charging the refrigerant.
NOTICE:
Be sure to warm up the compressor when turning the A/C switch ON after removing and installing the cooler refrigerant lines (including the compressor), to prevent damage to the compressor.
4. INSPECT FOR REFRIGERANT LEAK
(a) After recharging with refrigerant gas, inspect for refrigerant leak gas using a halogen leak detector.
(b) Carry out the test under the following conditions:
* IG OFF
* Secure good ventilation (the gas leak detector may react to volatile gases which are not refrigerant, such as evaporated gasoline and exhaust gas).
* Repeat the test 2 or 3 times.
* Make sure that there is some refrigerant remaining in the refrigeration system. When the compressor is off: approx. 392 to 588 kPa (4 to 6 kgf/cm2, 57 to 85 psi)
(c) Using a halogen leak detector, inspect for refrigerant leaks from the refrigerant lines.
(d) Bring the halogen leak detector close to the drain hose with the detector's power off, and then turn the detector on.
HINT
* After the blower motor has stopped, let the cooling unit stand for more than 15 minutes.
* Bring the halogen leak detector sensor under the drain hose.
* When bringing the halogen leak detector close to the drain hose, make sure that the halogen leak detector does not react to volatile gases. If it is not possible to avoid interference from volatile gases, the vehicle should be lifted up to allow testing.
(e) If a refrigerant leak is not detected from the drain hose, remove the blower motor control from the cooling unit. Insert the halogen leak detector sensor into the unit and perform the test.
(f) Disconnect the pressure switch connector and leave it for approximately 20 minutes. Bring the halogen leak detector close to the pressure switch and perform the test.
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.