2007 Honda Ridgeline RTLFACTORY OEM SERVICE PROCEDURE

Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch is OFF before disconnecting the connectors.
  1. Before testing the power windows, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
  2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  3. Remove the power window master switch (see MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT  ).
  4. Disconnect the 23P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
    Fig 1: Identifying Power Window Master Switch 23P Connector Terminals
    G05593052Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  5. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, go to step 6.
  6. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 7.
    PROBLEM SYMPTOM CHART

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
    1
    2    		 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground
    There should be less than 0.5 V.
    • Poor ground (G401, G501)
    • An open in the wire
    10 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground
    There should be battery voltage
    • Blown No. 28 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    15 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    20 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check the voltage to ground.
    There should be battery voltage
    • Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
  7. Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch ON (II) and make these input tests at the connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch, and go to step 8.
    PROBLEM SYMPTOM CHART

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
    6 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground.
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Short to ground in the wire
    4 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's power window switch moving up or down Check for voltage between the No. 4 and No. 1 terminals There should be 0 V to about 5 V-0 V to about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves)
    • Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Blown No. 28 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire (RED/WHT, BLU, ORN)
    • Short to ground in the wire
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • Faulty power window master switch
    17 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's power window switch moving up or down Check for voltage between the No. 17 and No. 1 terminals' There should be 0 V to about 5 V-0 V to about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2 5 V while the window moves).
    11 RED/YEL Connect the No. 10 and No. 11 terminals with a jumper wire, and connect the No. 23 terminal to body ground. Check for driver's window operation:
    The window should go down.
    • Blown No. 28 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • An open in the wire
    23 RED/BLK Connect the No. 10 and No. 23 terminals with a jumper wire, and connect the No. 11 terminal to body ground. Check for driver's window operation:
    The window should go up.
    18 BLU/RED Connect the No. 10 and No. 18 terminals with a jumper wire. Check for front passenger's window operation.
    The window should go up.
    • Blown No 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty front passenger's power window motor
    • Faulty front passenger's power window switch
    • Poor ground (G402)
    • An open in the wire
    9 BLU/WHT Connect the No. 10 and No. 9 terminals with a jumper wire. Check for front passenger's window operation:
    The window should go down
    13 BRN/WHT Connect the No. 10 and No. 13 terminals with a jumper wire. Check for left rear window operation.
    The window should go up.
    • Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty left rear power window motor
    • Faulty left rear power window switch
    • Poor ground (G501)
    • An open in the wire
    19 BRN Connect the No. 10 and No. 19 terminals with a jumper wire. Check for left rear window operation.
    The window should go down.
    12 BLU/ORN Connect the No. 10 and No. 12 terminals with a jumper wire. Check for right rear window operation:
    The window should go up.
    • Blown No. 25 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty right rear power window motor
    • Faulty right rear power window switch
    • Poor ground (G501)
    • An open in the wire
    14 BRN/YEL Connect the No. 10 and No. 14 terminals with a jumper wire. Check for right rear window operation.
    The window should go down.
    3 WHT/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 1 V.
    • Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • Faulty power window relay
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    8 WHT/RED Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Check for voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 1 V.
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    • Poor ground (G401)
    • An open in the wire
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral Check for voltage to ground.
    There should be 5 V or more.
    • Short to ground
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Check for voltage to ground:
    There should be 5 V or more
    21 WHT Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Check for voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 1 V.
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    • Poor ground (G401)
    • An open in the wire
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral Check for voltage to ground:
    There should be 5 V or more.
    • Short to ground
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Check for voltage to ground.
    There should be 5 V or more.
    16 BRN/BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity between the No. 16 terminal and under-dash fuse/relay box connector J terminal No. 4:
    There should be continuity.    		 An open in the wire
  8. Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT  ).
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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.

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