Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Engine Noise Identification and Location
For information on Ford Color Coded Illustrations refer to OEM COLOR CODING INFORMATION
- NVH symptoms should be identified using the diagnostic tools and techniques that are available. For a list of these techniques, tools, an explanation of their uses and a glossary of common terms, For additional information, refer to: Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) . Since it is possible that any one of multiple systems may be the cause of the symptom, it may be necessary to use a process of elimination type of diagnostic approach to pinpoint the responsible system.
- Verify the customer concern by operating the engine to duplicate the condition.
- Check the engine oil level and check the oil for contamination. Low engine oil level or contaminated oil are a common cause of engine noise. If the oil is contaminated, the source of the contamination must be identified and repaired as necessary.
- Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical damage.
- If the inspection reveals obvious concerns that can be readily identified, repair as necessary.
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NOTE: Make sure to use the latest scan tool software release.
If the cause is not visually evident, connect the scan tool to the DLC.
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NOTE: The VCM LED prove out confirms power and ground from the DLC are provided to the VCM.
If the scan tool does not communicate with the VCM:
- check the VCM connection to the vehicle.
- check the scan tool connection to the VCM.
- check for No Power To The Scan Tool, to diagnose no power to the scan tool.For additional information, refer to: Controller Area Network (CAN) Module Communications Network .
- If the scan tool does not communicate with the vehicle:
- verify the ignition key is in the ON position.
- verify the scan tool operation with a known good vehicle.
- to diagnose no response from the PCM, For additional information, refer to: Controller Area Network (CAN) Module Communications Network .
- Carry out the network test.
- If the scan tool responds with no communication for one or more modules, For additional information, refer to: Controller Area Network (CAN) Module Communications Network .
- If the network test passes, retrieve and record continuous memory DTCs.
- Clear the continuous DTCs and carry out the self-test diagnostics for the PCM.
- If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the appropriate Electronic Engine Controls article.
- If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, continue the inspection and verification if a noise concern is related to the engine. For vibration concerns and noise concerns such as powertrain mounts, air intake system and starter GO to Symptom Chart - NVH.
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NOTE: This procedure uses multiple tools/methods to help locate the source of engine noise. It may be necessary to repeatedly compare the sound between the tools/methods to help locate the source of the noise.
Follow the steps below to help identify the source of engine noise. Compare the characteristics of the engine noise to those listed in the NVH chart.
- Using a stethoscope, try to locate the source of the engine noise. Note the location of any suspected noises heard with the stethoscope.
Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using a stethoscope.
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available. - If the noise is unclear using a stethoscope, attach ChassisEAR to multiple locations of the engine. Attach ChassisEAR to suspected areas of the noise and areas not suspected as the source of the noise for comparison purposes. ChassisEAR allow up to 6 clamps to locate the source of the noise. Instead of or in addition to using the ChassisEAR, EngineEAR can also be used. Wave or hold the EngineEAR over suspected areas of the engine to help identify the suspected noise.
Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using ChassisEAR.
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available.Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using EngineEAR.
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available. - If the noise is still unclear using the stethoscope, ChassisEAR or EngineEAR, connect the scan tool. Use the VCMM oscilloscope function to view and graph noise. Attach the VCMM accelerometers at the loudest suspected locations as determined previously by using the stethoscope, Chassis Ears or EngineEAR. Using the scan tool and VCMM accelerometers, graph the noise through the oscilloscope and determine if the noise is an upper or lower engine noise. For upper engine noise, place the accelerometers at either end of the valve cover. For lower engine noises, place the accelerometers at either end or side to side of the engine block.
Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using VCMM and accelerometers.
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available. -
NOTE: ChassisEAR and EngineEAR allow the use of a microphone for listening. These tools may be connected directly to the VCMM by using a 3.5mm male to RCA female adapter.
If the noise remains unclear or to verify the suspected noise from the stethoscope ChassisEAR, EngineEAR or graphed accelerometers, using a 3.5mm male to RCA female adapter, attach the ChassisEAR or EngineEAR to the VCMM. Graph all or some of the noises, as like the accelerometers.
Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using VCMM and ChassisEAR.
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available.Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using VCMM and EngineEAR.
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available. - If the suspected noise location still cannot be determined, using the oscilloscope function of the VCMM, graph any combination of the accelerometer(s), ChassisEAR and/or EngineEAR to compare or identify the suspected noise. All 4 ports on the VCMM may be utilized for graphing noise.
Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using VCMM and ChassisEAR and accelerometer(s).
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available.Click here to view engine noise diagnosis using VCMM and EngineEAR and accelerometer(s).
multimedia:A supplement to the article is available.
- Using a stethoscope, try to locate the source of the engine noise. Note the location of any suspected noises heard with the stethoscope.
- After the noise is localized, note the characteristics of the noise, including type of noise, frequency and conditions when the noise occurs. Use the NVH chart to help identify the source of the noise.
NVH Chart
NOTE: Possible sources and their listed actions are not limited to the symptoms provided below.Noise may be telegraphed from other areas or excited from associated parts and/or assemblies. The below chart of sources and actions are strictly suggestions and should be used as a guide.Symptom Possible Source Drone type noise Powertrain mount(s)
DrivetrainDrumming noise - occurs inside the vehicle during idle or high idle, hot or cold. Very low-frequency drumming is very rpm dependent Engine vibration excites the body resonances inducing interior noise
DrivetrainEngine drumming noise - accompanied by vibration Powertrain mount(s) Rattle Drivetrain
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearings
ValvetrainRattle - occurs at idle or at light acceleration from a stop Powertrain mount(s) Moaning Drivetrain Whine/moan type noise - pitch increases or changes with vehicle speed Powertrain mount(s) Clunk Drivetrain Clunk - occurs when shifting from PARK or between REVERSE and DRIVE Powertrain mounts
Idle speed is too highHooting Air induction
Powertrain mountsAccessory drive bearing hoot - occurs at idle or high idle in cold temperatures of approximately 4 deg.C (40 deg.F) or colder at the first start of the day Accessory drive idler or tensioner pulley bearing is experiencing stick/slip between ball bearings and the bearing race Accessory drive belt noise, squeal or chirping Defective/worn or incorrect accessory drive belt
Misaligned pulley(s)
Pulley runout
Damaged or worn accessory drive component or idler
Fluid contamination of the accessory drive belt or pulleys
Damaged or worn accessory drive belt tensioner
Damaged pulley grooves
Damaged or worn coolant pump pulleyPop noise - happens approximately 30 seconds after cold start up Turbocharger bypass valve Clunking/moaning/grinding noise Coolant pump has excessive end play or imbalance Humming Air Induction
Powertrain mountsWhining FEAD Whine/hum - occurs when unlocking the vehicle or opening the door with the engine off (GTDI only) Fuel pump module Whine or moaning noise Air intake system Whistling noise - normally accompanied with poor idle condition Air intake system
Turbocharger intake tube assembly leaking
Loose connections or damage to air intake hoses and tubes
Air leaks at turbine housing, blown joints or damaged exhaust
Carbon build up in the turbine housing
Turbocharger imbalance due to foreign object/damage
Inoperative turbocharger bypass valveWhine or air rush type noise Turbocharger
Air InductionChirp or whoosh sound Turbocharger bypass valve
Air InductionHissing noise Air Induction Hissing noise - occurs during idle or high idle that is apparent with the hood open Vacuum leak
Vehicles with a plastic intake manifoldGrinding noise - occurs during engine cranking Incorrect starter motor mounting
Starter motor
Incorrect starter motor drive engagement
DrivetrainEngine noise, front of engine - knocking noise from lower front of engine Damaged or separated crankshaft pulley/damper Tapping Drivetrain
PistonEngine noise, front of engine - ticking, tapping or rattling noise from the front of the engine Timing drive components Engine noise, upper end - ticking noise near the fuel rail and intake manifold Fuel rail clip
Fuel injector
Fuel injection pump (DI (direct injection) engines only)Engine noise, upper end - ticking, knocking or rattle noise that occurs during idle or high idle during the first cold start of the day and may disappear as the engine warms Valve train noise (bled down lifter/lash adjuster)
Cam DriveEngine noise, upper end - occurs mostly with a warm engine at light/medium acceleration Worn or damaged spark plugs Engine noise, upper end - rattling noise from the valve train. Worse when the engine is cold Low oil level
Thin or diluted oil
Low oil pressure
Worn valve train components
Worn valve guides
Excessive runout of the valve seats on the valve faceEngine noise, upper end - pinging noise Gasoline octane too low
KS operation
Incorrect spark timing
High operating temperature
Spark plug
Catalytic converter
Cylinder head
ValvetrainEngine noise, lower end - ticking or knocking noise near the oil filter adapter Oil pump
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearingsEngine noise, lower end - light knocking noise, also described as piston slap. Noise is most noticeable when the engine is cold with light to medium acceleration. The noise disappears as the engine warms Excessive clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall Engine noise, lower end - light double knock or sharp rap sound. Occurs mostly with a warm engine at idle or low speeds in drive. Increases in relation to engine load. Associated with a poor lubrication history Excessive clearance between the piston and the piston pin Engine noise, lower end - light knocking noise. The noise is most noticeable when the engine is warm. The noise tends to decrease when the vehicle is coasting or in neutral Excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft Engine noise, lower end - deep knocking noise. The noise is most noticeable when the engine is warm, at lower rpm and under a light load and then at float Worn or damaged crankshaft main bearings Engine noise, rear of engine - knocking noise at rear of engine Damaged flywheel/flexplate Slapping Drivetrain
PistonKnocking Drivetrain Engine vibration - vibration felt at all times Excessive engine pulley runout
Damaged or worn accessory componentEngine vibration - at idle, a low-frequency vibration (5-20 Hz) or mild shake that is felt through the seat/ floorpan Cylinder misfire
Engine or torque converter out of balanceEngine vibration - is felt with increases and decreases in engine rpm Powertrain mount(s)
Engine or transmission grounded to chassisEngine vibration - increases intensity as the engine rpm is increased Engine out-of-balance Engine vibration - mostly at coast/neutral coast. Condition improves with vehicle acceleration Combustion instability Engine vibration or shudder - occurs with light to medium acceleration above 56 km/h (35 mph) Worn or damaged spark plugs
Plugged fuel injector
Contaminated fuelBongo Balance shaft Chatter Valvetrain Chirping FEAD
Piston Rings
ValvetrainClicking Fuel
PCV
ValvetrainClatter Cam Drive
PistonCrickets Cam Drive Dieseling Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearings
PistonQuacking Cam Drive
FEADScratching Cam Drive
Drivetrain
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearingsScraping Cam Drive
Drivetrain
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearingsSqueaking Cam Drive
Drivetrain
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearingsSquealing Cam Drive
Drivetrain
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearingsThumping Drivetrain
Lower end, excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
Lower end, worn or damaged crankshaft main bearingsTin-Like Drivetrain
Cylinder Head
Manifold
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.