Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSFORD2009FUSION SEL, 3.0 1, FWDREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 1279 (EXHAUST SYSTEM)GENERAL PROCEDURESEXHAUST SYSTEM ALIGNMENT
2009 Ford Fusion SEL, 3.0 1, FWD
Exhaust System Alignment
2009 Ford Fusion SEL, 3.0 1, FWDSECTION Exhaust System Alignment
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2009 Ford Mustang. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
All vehicles
- With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to JACKING AND LIFTING article.
- Loosen the muffler-to-intermediate pipe clamp.
- Loosen the exhaust coupler nuts. Do not tighten the coupler at this time.
- Loosen the converter-to-manifold nuts. Do not tighten the nuts at this time.
- Position an adjustable jackstand under the rear of the catalytic converter.
- Make sure the exhaust system hanger rods are correctly inserted into all of the exhaust isolators.
- Using the jackstand, adjust the height of the catalytic converter until the converter hanger rods are centered in the exhaust isolators at the transmission crossmember.
- Using the jackstand, adjust the height of the catalytic converter until:
- the clearance between the catalytic converter and the floor pan (at the transmission cross member position) is 30 mm (1.18 in).
- the clearance between the bottom of the intermediate pipe and the top of the lateral stiffener bar is 34 mm (1.34 in).
- Beginning at the front of the vehicle, align the exhaust system in the following sequence.
- Hand-tighten all the catalytic converter nuts.
- Alternately tighten, in 10 N.m (89 lb-in) increments, the upper catalytic converter-to-manifold nuts to 40 N.m (30 lb-ft).
- LH upper.
- RH upper.
- Alternately tighten, in 10 N.m (89 lb-in) increments, the lower catalytic converter-to-manifold nuts to 40 N.m (30 lb-ft).
- LH lower.
- RH lower.
- Verify the intermediate pipe button is fully seated to the bottom of the muffler inlet pipe notch.
- Tighten the muffler-to-intermediate pipe clamp nuts to 48 N.m (35 lb-ft).
- Slide coupler over catalyst pipe and engage the coupler clip completely over the converter button.
- Push the muffler forward. The back of the exhaust coupler should be in the crosshatched area on the intermediate pipe.
- Alternately tighten, in 10 Nm (89 lb-in) increments, the intermediate pipe-to-converter assembly coupling(s) to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
NOTE: Make sure that the intermediate pipe is inserted into the coupler correctly. Correct installation is achieved when the rearmost end of the coupler terminates in the knurled region of the intermediate pipe. - Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.
Early build vehicles
Fig 1: Adjusting Height Of Catalytic Converter Until Hanger Rods Are Centered In Exhaust Isolators At Transmission Crossmember Using Jackstand
Late build vehicles
NOTE:
The exhaust system clearance must be checked on both the RH and LH side of the catalytic converter and both intermediate pipes (LH and RH).
All vehicles
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.