Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Diagnostic Aids
Perform this test when directed by QUICK TEST. This test is intended to diagnose a faulty BOO switch circuit or PCM. To prevent replacement of good components, be aware following non-EEC related areas may be at fault:
- Brakelight bulb.
- Brakelight switch or brakelight fuse.
| Application | Wire Color |
|---|---|
| Aerostar | Red/Light Green |
| Except Aerostar | Light Green |
- Code 74/536: Verify Brake Pedal Was Depressed
Code 74/536 indicates that when brake pedal is applied during KOER SELF-TEST, BOO signal did not cycle high and low. Possible causes for this fault are:
- Brake pedal not applied during self-test.
- Brake pedal applied during entire self-test.
- Open brakelight circuit.
- Short to ground or power.
- Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
If brake was not applied during KOER SELF-TEST, repeat test. Depress and release brake pedal only once during test. If pedal was depressed, go to step 2).
- Check Operation Of Brakelights With ignition on, check operation of brakelights. If brakelights operate normally, go to step 3). If brakelights do not operate, go to step 4). If brakelights are always on,go to step 5).
- Check For BOO Switch Circuit Cycling Turn ignition off. Wait 10 seconds. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect terminals, and repair if damaged. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV), leaving PCM disconnected. Measure voltage between test pin No. 2 and test pin No. 40 while applying and releasing brake. If voltage cycles, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST. If voltage does not cycle, repair open circuit in BOO switch circuit between PCM and BOO switch connection to brakelight circuit. Repeat QUICK TEST.
- Check For Power To Brake Switch Ensure related fuses and brakelight bulbs are in good condition. Turn ignition off. Disconnect brakelight switch (located on brake pedal). Measure voltage between BATT (+) input to brakelight switch and ground. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, check condition of brakelight switch. If brakelight switch is okay, repair open circuit between brakelight switch and brakelight ground. Repeat QUICK TEST. If voltage is less than 10 volts, repair open BATT (+) circuit to brakelight switch and repeat QUICK TEST.
- Verify Brake Switch Is Not Always Closed Turn ignition off. Disconnect brakelight switch (located on brake pedal). Turn ignition on. If brakelights are still on, go to step 6). If brakelights are not on, verify correct installation of brakelight switch. If installation is okay, replace brakelight switch and repeat QUICK TEST.
- Check For Short To Power In PCM Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM. Turn ignition on. Check brakelights. If brakelights are on, go to step 7). If brakelights are not on, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST.
- Check For Short To Power In Shift Lock Actuator Turn ignition off. Ensure PCM and brakelight switch are disconnected. Disconnect shift lock actuator, cruise control module and ABS module (if equipped). Turn ignition on. If brakelights are still on, repair short to power in BOO or STOPLAMP circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If brakelights are not on, repair short circuit in shift lock actuator circuit, cruise control system circuit or ABS circuit. Repeat QUICK TEST.
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.