Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Dr-22: No-Fault Code Mechanical Test
At this point in the driveability test procedure you have determined that all of the engine controls systems are operating as they were designed to. Therefore, they are not the cause of the driveability problem. The following additional items should be checked as possible causes:
- ENGINE VACUUM
Must be at least 13 inches in neutral. - ENGINE VALVE TIMING
Set to specifications. - ENGINE COMPRESSION
To specifications. - EXHAUST SYSTEM
Free from any restrictions. - PCV SYSTEM
Must flow freely. - DRIVE SPROCKETS
Camshaft and crank shaft. - TORQUE CONVERTER STALL SPEED
To specifications. - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
No internal vacuum leak. - FUEL CONTAMINATION
High alcohol and water content. - FUEL INJECTORS
Rough idle may be caused by injector control wire not connected to correct injector. - TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS
Any that may apply to vehicle. - ENGINE SECONDARY IGNITION CHECK
Any abnormal scope pattern. - TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS
Any that apply to vehicle. - All air intake piping and vacuum hoses must be in place and secure. The proper air filter element must be used.
- FUEL PRESSURE
Must be correct. Specification: With no vacuum at the regulator:- 48 PSI on V6 & non-turbo 4 Cyl. engines
- 36 PSI on turbo engines
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.