Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSDODGE AND RAM1982MIRADA 3.7L ENG VIN EREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISENGINE PERFORMANCEENGINE CONTROL SYSTEMSELECTRONIC FUEL CONTROLTESTINGELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL SYSTEM TESTSFAILURE TO START TEST
1982 Dodge and Ram Mirada 3.7L Eng VIN E
Failure to Start Test
1982 Dodge and Ram Mirada 3.7L Eng VIN ESECTION Failure to Start Test
- Measure and record battery voltage. Check battery specific gravity, which must be 1.220 (temperature corrected) to deliver proper voltage to ignition system.
- Turn ignition switch off and disconnect 10-wire connector from the SCC. Repeat Ignition System Starting Test, step 1. If spark results, replace computer.
- If no spark is obtained, check voltage at coil positive terminal. With ignition switch on, connect positive voltmeter lead to coil positive terminal and negative lead to a good ground. Reading should be within 1 volt of battery voltage. If not, check wiring between battery and coil positive terminal.
- If voltage at positive coil terminal was correct, connect positive voltmeter lead to coil negative terminal and negative lead to a good ground. Again, voltage should be within 1 volt of battery voltage. If not, replace ignition coil.NOTE: You may wish to check coil primary and secondary resistance before replacing ignition coil. However, if you have battery voltage on positive side, but not on negative side of coil, ignition coil normally requires replacement.
- If voltage was correct at negative coil terminal, but no spark resulted in Ignition System Starting Test, step 1, replace ignition coil.
- If spark results, but engine will not start, turn ignition switch to the "RUN" position. Connect positive voltmeter lead to terminal 1 of 10-wire connector and negative lead to a good ground. See Fig 1. Reading should be within 1 volt of battery voltage. If not, check wire for open circuit. Repeat this step after repairing wire. Reconnect 10-wire connector to computer.
- If battery voltage was recorded in step 6, place a thin insulator (piece of paper) between curb idle adjusting screw and carburetor switch or make sure screw does not touch switch. See Fig 2. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to a good ground. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position and touch positive voltmeter lead to carburetor switch terminal. Reading should be approximately 5 volts. If so, proceed to step 10.
- If voltage was not at least 5 volts, turn ignition switch off. Disconnect 10-wire connector from computer. Turn ignition switch back to "RUN" position. Connect positive voltmeter lead to terminal 2 of 10-wire connector and negative lead to ground. See Fig 3. Voltage reading should again be within 1 volt of battery voltage. If not, check wiring between terminal 2 and ignition switch for opens, shorts or poor connections.
- If voltage at terminal 2 was correct, turn ignition switch off. Check continuity between terminal 7 of 10-wire connector and carburetor switch terminal. See Fig 4. Continuity should exist. If not, check wire for opens, shorts or poor connections. If continuity is present, use an ohmmeter to check continuity between terminal 10 and engine ground. See Fig 5. If there is continuity, replace computer. If there is no continuity, check wire from terminal 10 to ground. If engine fails to start, proceed to next step.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.