Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
DTC P0455: EVAP System Large Leak Detected; DTC P0456: EVAP System Very Small Leak Detected
Special Tools Required
Vacuum Pump/Gauge, 0-30 In.Hg, Snap-on YA4000A or equivalent, commercially available
- Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot, and review the general troubleshooting information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
- Fresh fuel has a higher volatility that creates greater pressure/vacuum. The best condition for testing is less than a full tank of fresh fuel. If possible, to assist in leak detection, add 1 gallon of fresh fuel to the tank (as long as it will not fill the tank), just before starting these procedures.
- Check the fuel fill cap (the cap must say TIGHTEN TO CLICK). It should turn 1/4 turn after it's tight, then it clicks.
Is the correct fuel fill cap installed and properly tightened?
YES -Go to step 2.
NO -Replace or tighten the cap, then go to step 24.
- Check the fuel fill cap seal (A) and the fuel fill pipe mating surface (B). Verify that the fuel fill cap tether cord (C) is not caught under the cap.Fig 1: Identifying Fuel Fill Cap Seal And Fuel Fill Pipe Mating Surface With Fuel Fill Cap Tether Cord
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Is the fuel fill cap seal missing or damaged, is the fuel fill pipe damaged, or is the tether cord caught under the cap?
YES -Replace the fuel fill cap or the fuel fill pipe, then go to step 24.
NO -Go to step 3.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
- Clear the DTC with the HDS.
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Check for a poor connection or damage at the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube.
Is the tube OK?
YES -Go to step 7.
NO -
- Replace the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube, then go to step 26.
- If needed, replace the fuel tank (see FUEL TANK REPLACEMENT ), then go to step 26.
- Disconnect the vacuum hose (purge line) (A) from the EVAP canister purge valve (B) in the engine compartment, then connect a T-fitting (C) from the vacuum gauge and the vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 In.Hg, to the vacuum hose as shown.
- Slowly apply about 2 kPa (0.6 In.Hg, 15 mmHg) of vacuum to the hose.
Does it hold vacuum for 1 minute?
YES -Go to step 9.
NO -Replace the EVAP canister purge valve, then go to step 25.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
- Do the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Is the result OK?
YES -Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, the EVAP canister purge valve, the EVAP canister vent shut valve, and the PCM.
NO -Go to step 5.
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Disconnect the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (A) from the EVAP canister (B), and plug the EVAP canister port (C).
- Remove the vacuum gauge, and connect a vacuum pump/gauge, 0-30 In.Hg, to the vacuum hose as shown.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
- Select EVAP CVS ON in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
- Apply vacuum to the hose until the FTP reads 1.90 V (-0.59 In.Hg,-15.1 mmHg).NOTE: Be careful not to exceed the vacuum. If you do, the FTP sensor can be damaged.
- Monitor the FTP SENSOR in the DATA LIST for 1 minute with the HDS.
Does the voltage increase more than 0.2 V (0.1 In.Hg, 0.5 mmHg)?
YES -Go to step 18.
NO -Go to step 23.
- Select EVAP CVS OFF in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
- Disconnect the fresh air hose (A) from the EVAP canister (B), and plug the EVAP canister vent shut valve port (C).
- Apply vacuum to the EVAP system until the FTP reads 1.90 V (-0.59 In.Hg,-15.1 mmHg).NOTE: Be careful not to exceed the vacuum. If you do, the FTP sensor can be damaged.
- Monitor the FTP SENSOR in the DATA LIST for 1 minute with the HDS.
Does the voltage increase more than 0.2 V (0.1 In.Hg, 2.5 mmHg)?
YES -Go to step 22.
NO -Replace the EVAP canister vent shut valve, then go to step 25.
- Check for a loose or damaged EVAP canister purge line between the EVAP canister and the EVAP canister purge valve.
Is the line OK?
YES -Replace these parts, then go to step 25:
- FTP sensor O-ring
- EVAP canister vent shut valve O-ring
- EVAP canister
NO -Reconnect or repair the EVAP canister purge hose, then go to step 25.
- Select EVAP CVS OFF in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
- Check these parts for looseness or damage:
- Fuel fill pipe
- Fuel vapor return pipe
Are the parts OK?
YES -Check the fuel tank unit base gasket (see FUEL TANK UNIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), and check the fuel tank, then go to step 25.
NO -Repair or replace the damaged parts, then go to step 25.
- Reconnect all hoses and connectors.
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
- Reset the PCM with the HDS.
- Do the PCM idle learn procedure (see PCM IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE ).
- Do the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Is the result OK?
YES -Troubleshooting is complete.
NO -Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the FTP sensor, the EVAP canister purge valve, the EVAP canister vent shut valve, and the PCM, then go to step 1.
NO RELATED
Use the Manual With the Right Hardware
Pair factory procedures with proven DIY tools so the instructions are easier to execute.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.