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HOMESERVICE MANUALSCHEVROLET2006COBALT SS, 4D SEDAN, STANDARDREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 776 (POWER WINDOWS)POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH INPUT TEST
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS, 4D Sedan, Standard

Power Window Master Switch Input Test

2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS, 4D Sedan, StandardSECTION Power Window Master Switch Input Test
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2011 Honda Insight and 2010 Honda Insight. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch.
  1. Remove the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT  ).
  2. Disconnect the 22P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
    Fig 1: Identifying 22P Connector And Power Window Master Switch
    G06431625Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
  4. With the connector still disconnected, do the following input tests:
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
    NOTE: Before testing, make sure the No. 1 (7.5 A), No. 22 (7.5 A), and No. 60 (50 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay are OK.
    INPUT TEST REFERENCE CHART

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
    3 BRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage between terminals No. 3 and No. 12:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. (20A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty power window relay (P/W)
    • Faulty MICU
    • An open in the wire
    • Poor ground (G501)
    2 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 3 and No. 2, and terminals No. 1 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires:
    The front passenger's window should open.
    • Blown No. 17 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty front passenger's power window motor
    • Faulty front passenger's power window switch
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    1 WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 3 and No. 1, and terminals No. 2 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires:
    The front passenger's window should close.
    13 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 15 and No. 13, and terminals No. 14 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires:
    The right rear window should close.
    • Blown No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty front passenger's power window motor
    • Faulty front passenger's power window switch
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    14 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 15 and No. 14, and terminals No. 13 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires:
    The right rear window should open.
    21 ORN Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 20 and No. 21, and terminals No. 22 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires:
    The left rear window should open.
    • Blown No. 19 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty left rear power window motor
    • Faulty left rear power window switch
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    22 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 20 and No. 22, and terminals No. 21 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires:
    The left rear window should close.
    10 LT BLU Connect terminals No. 4 and No. 10, and terminals No. 9 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation:
    The driver's window should close.
    • Blown No. 3 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    9 PNK Connect terminals No. 4 and No. 9, and terminals No. 10 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation:
    The driver's window should open.
    M2
     
    M33    		 BRN BLK Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage between terminals No. 3 and No. 12:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 17 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty power window relay (P/W)
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty MICU
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
  5. Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests:
  • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
  • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT  ).
    NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX  ).
    WIRE SPECIFICATIONS

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
    7 BRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    16 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • A short to ground in the wire
    5 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 5 and No. 7: An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0V and about 5V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    • A short to ground in the wire
    6 YEL Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 6 and No. 7: An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0V and about 5V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).
    4 GRY Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 3 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    15 BLU Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty power window relay (P/W)
    • Faulty MICU
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    20 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 19 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty power window relay (P/W)
    • Faulty MICU
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    11 BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
    There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    12
RENDER: 1.0x

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