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HOMESERVICE MANUALSCHEVROLET2001CAVALIER LS, 2.4 TREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 23 (DRIVE AXLES)REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONDRIVELINE SUPPORT ASSEMBLYREMOVAL (AUTOMATIC)
2001 Chevrolet Cavalier LS, 2.4 T

Removal (Automatic)

2001 Chevrolet Cavalier LS, 2.4 TSECTION Removal (Automatic)
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2003 Chevrolet Corvette and 2002 Chevrolet Corvette. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support vehicle.
  3. Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies.
  4. Remove the catalytic converter assembly. See CATALYTIC CONVERTERS .
  5. Tie off the left muffler assembly to the underbody to support the muffler out of the way. See Figure.
  6. Remove the rear stabilizer shaft bracket bolts and nuts. See Figure. Remove the rear stabilizer shaft brackets and insulators. Position the stabilizer shaft downwards. Remove the left side exhaust muffler bolts. Remove the exhaust muffler gasket. Slide the muffler blade out from the hanger. Remove the right muffler.
  7. Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel bolts. See Figure. Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel.
  8. Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, remove the rear bellhousing access plug.
    9. NOTE: The following step must be performed to assure proper torque converter balance during installation.
  9. Reference mark the transmission flexplate to the transmission torque converter through the access hole in the rear bellhousing.
  10. Disconnect wiring at starter. Support the starter. Remove starter bolts and starter. Turn engine flexplate through starter opening until one of the flexplate-to-torque converter bolts lines up with access hole in the rear bellhousing. Install Flywheel Holding Tool (J-42386-A) to keep flexplate from turning. Remove first flexplate-to-torque converter bolt. Remove Flywheel Holding Tool. Repeat procedure to remove the 2 remaining flexplate-to-torque converter bolts.
    11. NOTE: The propeller shaft front bearing positioning bolts are intended to remain torqued to specification and in place until instructed in the installation procedure. The bolts are to be removed, and the plastic plugs reinstalled after the installation is complete. Failure to use the minimum length fastener specified will prevent proper retention of the propeller shaft front bearing during disassembly or installation.
  11. Remove the 2 plastic plugs from the front of driveline support assembly. See Figure.
  12. Install 2 bolts, M10 - 1.5 X 55 mm, or longer, in place of the plastic plugs (The long bolts are used to maintain the propeller shaft front bearing in original position during removal and installation). Tighten the propeller shaft front bearing positioning bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 N.m).
  13. Using a flat bladed screwdriver, remove the engine flywheel housing access plug.
  14. Loosen the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt. See Figure. Rotate the engine at the flexplate, if necessary for alignment.
  15. Remove the nuts retaining the transmission shift cable bracket to the transmission.
  16. Disconnect the transmission shift control cable from the transmission shift lever. Unsnap to release the cable.
  17. Reposition the transmission shift cable and bracket.
    18. NOTE: Use care not to scratch the rear transverse spring.
  18. Measure the transverse spring stud height. See Figure. This measurement will be used in the installation to set-up the vehicle trim height. Using the Transverse Spring Compressor (J-33432-A), compress the rear transverse spring. See Figure. Remove the retainers, nuts, bolts and insulators retaining the transverse spring to the lower control arms. See Figure. Remove the rear transverse spring mounting bolts, spring spacers and insulators from the crossmember. Remove the rear transverse spring.
  19. Support one of the lower control arms with a straight jack.
  20. Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the suspension knuckle.
  21. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolts.
  22. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the suspension knuckle.
  23. Remove the straight jack from the control arm.
  24. Repeat steps  19- 23 for the other side of the vehicle.
  25. Assemble the Drivetrain Support Fixture (J-42055).
  26. Install the Drivetrain Support Fixture to a transmission jack.
  27. Position and firmly secure the Drivetrain Support Fixture with the transmission jack to the transmission.
  28. Disconnect the wiring harness and brake pipe clip retainers from the rear suspension crossmember.
  29. Remove the transaxle mount-to-rear crossmember nuts.
  30. Position a transmission jack under the rear suspension crossmember and firmly secure the crossmember to the jack.
  31. Using only hand tools, remove the rear suspension crossmember retaining nuts.
  32. With the aid of an assistant, slowly lower the rear suspension crossmember away from the vehicle frame rails and remove the crossmember.
  33. Remove the transaxle mount bracket-to-differential bolts. See Figure.
  34. Remove the transaxle mount with bracket. Removing the transaxle mount will allow for greater stability on a workbench after the driveline is removed.
  35. Using a pry bar, carefully release the axle shafts from the differential.
  36. Tie off the axle shafts to the underbody to support the shafts out of the way. The left muffler assembly pipe toward the rear offers a good location to help support the left axle shaft.
  37. Release the retainer securing the wiring harness to the L-shaped brackets along the driveline support assembly. See Figure. Slide the harness up out of the brackets and position aside.
  38. Slowly lower the driveline approximately 2.0" (51 mm), while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, in order to access the electrical connectors. See Figure.
  39. Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) electrical connector. See Figure.
  40. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer from the stud at the differential rear cover.
  41. Disconnect the wiring harness retainer clip from the top of the differential. See Figure.
  42. Depress both tabs on the transmission harness 20-pin connector and pull straight up to disconnect. See Figure. DO NOT pry the connector.
  43. Disconnect the Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch electrical connectors. See Figure.
  44. Remove the transmission wiring harness-to-left side transmission case retaining bolt. See Figure.
  45. Slowly lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt, and observe the relationship between the top rear of the differential and the lowest part of the rear compartment panel floor (the center storage compartment between the frame rails). The differential should not be lowered more than approximately even with the specified body point of reference. (The PCV pipes which route along the rear of the engine intake manifold will likely contact the dash panel). See Figure.
  46. Release the wiring harness from the harness retainer along the top of the transmission.
  47. Check to ensure that the wiring harness is free from the driveline being removed.
  48. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler rear pipes from the junction fittings at the engine flywheel housing, then cap the pipes and plug the junction fittings to prevent contamination.
  49. Using a block of wood to protect the engine oil pan, place a jack under the rear of the engine oil pan to support the engine, and prevent contact with the composite dash panel.
  50. Remove the five driveline support assembly-to-engine flywheel housing bolts.
  51. Carefully bend the wiring harness bracket away from the driveline and toward the driveline tunnel wall in order to make a clear removal path for the driveline.
    52. NOTE: The aid of an assistant will be necessary for the remaining steps.
  52. Have an assistant insert a flat-bladed screwdriver, or similar tool, between the edge of the driveline support assembly and the engine flywheel housing. Then, begin to pry the driveline loose from the engine.
  53. Have an assistant guide the front of the driveline during the removal of the driveline from the vehicle.
  54. Slowly lower the driveline, while simultaneously adjusting the angle of tilt and pulling the driveline away from the engine until the propeller input shaft at the front of the driveline support assembly just clears the engine flywheel housing.
  55. Slowly lower the driveline completely out of the vehicle.
  56. Position a chainfall, or equivalent lift device, in a way which will protect the transmission oil cooler rear pipes and the rear exhaust hangers located on the driveline support assembly.
  57. Using the lift device, raise the driveline to relieve the weight from the transmission jack.
  58. Disconnect the Drivetrain Support Fixture from the transmission jack only, the Drivetrain Support Fixture will provide stability to the driveline components while working on a bench.
  59. Position the driveline on a work bench with the lift device still attached.
  60. Support the driveline support assembly and the differential for additional balance.
  61. Remove the lift device from the driveline.
  62. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler upper and lower pipe fittings from the transmission, then cap the pipes and plug the fittings to prevent contamination.
  63. Remove the transmission oil cooler pipe rear clip.
  64. Remove the transmission oil cooler pipe middle clip.
  65. Remove the transmission oil cooler pipe front and rear clamp bolts and clamps.
  66. Remove the transmission oil cooler pipes.
  67. Remove the rear exhaust hanger mounting bolts.
  68. Remove the rear exhaust hangers from the driveline support assembly.
  69. Remove the transmission-to-driveline support assembly bolts/studs.
  70. Insert a flat bladed screwdriver, or similar tool, between the edge of the driveline support assembly and the transmission, then begin to pry the driveline support assembly loose from the transmission.
  71. Slowly slide the driveline support assembly away from the transmission while supporting the transmission torque converter.
  72. Using a strap positioned from side to side, secure the transmission torque converter to the transmission.
RENDER: 1.0x

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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.