Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSBUICK1983CENTURY V6-260 4.3L DSLREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISTRANSMISSION AND DRIVETRAINAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLETESTING AND INSPECTIONSYMPTOM RELATED DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURESTRANSAXLE NOISY
1983 Buick Century V6-260 4.3L DSL
Transaxle Noisy
1983 Buick Century V6-260 4.3L DSLSECTION Transaxle Noisy
Transaxle Noise
Before checking transaxle for noise, ensure noise is not from water pump, alternator, air conditioner or power steering pump. Isolate these components by removing the appropriate belt and running engine not more than two minutes at one time.
Noisy In Park, Neutral & All Driving Ranges
1. Oil pump cavitating due to low fluid level, plugged or restricted strainer, damaged seal, porosity in case intake area or water contamination of transmission fluid.
2. Drive link assembly rubbing against case cover.
3. Improperly installed pump or driven sprocket needle bearing.
4. Damaged converter or flex plate or loose converter to flex plate attaching bolts.
Noisy During Acceleration Any Gear
1. Transaxle or cooler lines grounded to underbody.
2. Loose or broken motor mounts.
3. Worn or damaged drive link assembly.
4. Driven sprocket support needle bearings worn or damaged.
Squeals At Low Vehicle Speed
1. Speedometer driven gear shaft seal requires lubrication or replacement.
2. Speedometer driven gear shaft twisted.
3. Speedometer adapter too long.
Noisy In All Driving Ranges
1. Damaged gear sets. Check depending on ranges involved.
2. Damaged planetary gear set Check thrust bearings and races for pitting or roughness, gears for damage or wear and pinions for tilt.
Before checking transaxle for noise, ensure noise is not from water pump, alternator, air conditioner or power steering pump. Isolate these components by removing the appropriate belt and running engine not more than two minutes at one time.
Noisy In Park, Neutral & All Driving Ranges
1. Oil pump cavitating due to low fluid level, plugged or restricted strainer, damaged seal, porosity in case intake area or water contamination of transmission fluid.
2. Drive link assembly rubbing against case cover.
3. Improperly installed pump or driven sprocket needle bearing.
4. Damaged converter or flex plate or loose converter to flex plate attaching bolts.
Noisy During Acceleration Any Gear
1. Transaxle or cooler lines grounded to underbody.
2. Loose or broken motor mounts.
3. Worn or damaged drive link assembly.
4. Driven sprocket support needle bearings worn or damaged.
Squeals At Low Vehicle Speed
1. Speedometer driven gear shaft seal requires lubrication or replacement.
2. Speedometer driven gear shaft twisted.
3. Speedometer adapter too long.
Noisy In All Driving Ranges
1. Damaged gear sets. Check depending on ranges involved.
2. Damaged planetary gear set Check thrust bearings and races for pitting or roughness, gears for damage or wear and pinions for tilt.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.