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HOMESERVICE MANUALSBUICK1982REGAL SPORT, TRANS MFR CD 350C/MX5REPAIR AND DIAGNOSIS (SINGLE PAGE)ENGINE PERFORMANCEFUEL DELIVERYROCHESTER E4MC & E4ME 4-BARRELOVERHAULDISASSEMBLYFLOAT BOWL
1982 Buick Regal Sport, Trans Mfr CD 350C/MX5

Float Bowl

1982 Buick Regal Sport, Trans Mfr CD 350C/MX5SECTION Float Bowl
  1. Remove solenoid metering rod plunger by lifting straight upward. Remove rubber seal from around mixture control solenoid connector. Remove air horn gasket by lifting out of dowel locating pins. Discard gasket.
  2. Remove pump plunger and spring from pump well. Remove staking holding TPS in bowl. To do so, protect gasket surface by laying a flat piece of metal across casting. Using a small screwdriver, lightly depress and hold TPS down against spring tension. Carefully remove staking from around TPS by prying upward with a small chisel against the metal piece (not bowl casting).
  3. Push up from bottom on electrical connector and remove TPS and connector assembly from bowl. Use care not to damage sensor during removal. Remove plastic filler block from float valve. Carefully remove each metering rod from metering jet. Make sure return spring is removed with each rod. Remove return spring by sliding it off metering rod.
  4. Remove screws connecting solenoid connector to float bowl. Using adjusting tool (J-28696) on upper end of mixture control solenoid screw, count number of clockwise turns required to lightly seat screw. Record number for later reassembly. Then, turn screw counterclockwise to remove it from fuel bowl. Carefully lift solenoid and connector assembly from bowl.
    NOTE: Do not remove plunger return spring or connector from solenoid body. Solenoid and connector are serviced as an assembly.
  5. Remove plastic insert from solenoid connector cavity in float bowl. Remove solenoid screw tension spring (next to float hanger clip). Remove float assembly and needle valve by lifting straight up. Remove needle valve seat and gasket.
  6. Remove large mixture control solenoid tension spring from boss on bottom of float bowl located between metering jets. Remove metering jets (if necessary).
    NOTE: Do not attempt to remove secondary metering jets (metering orifice plates). Secondary jets are permanent and if damaged, float bowl must be replaced.
  7. Remove accelerator pump discharge check ball retainer and check ball. Remove accelerator pump well baffle (if necessary).
  8. If equipped, remove rear vacuum break hose and retaining screws. Rotate vacuum break to remove vacuum break link from slot in plunger head. Do not remove non-adjustable vacuum break link until after removal of choke assembly from float bowl.
  9. Align a 0.159" (No. 21) drill on choke cover retaining rivets and drill only enough to remove rivet head. Using a drift and hammer, drive remainder of rivets out of choke housing. Remove 3 retainers, choke cover gasket (hot air type chokes) and choke cover from choke housing.
    NOTE: Do not remove baffle plate from beneath thermostatic coil on choke cover of hot air type chokes.
  10. Remove retaining screw and washer from inside choke housing. Slide choke housing from float bowl. On hot air type chokes, remove plastic tube seal from vacuum inlet boss of choke housing. If equipped, remove rear vacuum break link from intermediate choke lever.
  11. Remove secondary throttle valve lockout lever from float bowl. Remove choke coil lever retaining screw from end of intermediate choke shaft and remove lever. Slide intermediate choke shaft from choke housing. Remove fast idle cam from intermediate choke shaft. On hot air type chokes, remove and discard cup seal inside choke housing shaft hole.
    Fig 1: Exploded View of Rochester Model E4MC and E4ME 4-Barrel Carburetors
    G09315764Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY
  12. Remove intermediate choke shaft cup seal from float bowl insert. Do not remove insert. Invert float bowl to remove lower choke lever from bowl cavity. Remove fuel inlet nut, gasket and filter. Remove 3 throttle body-to-float bowl screws and throttle body.
RENDER: 1.0x

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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.