Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
2012 Acura ZDXFACTORY OEM SERVICE PROCEDURE
Door Multiplex Control Unit Input Test
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
- Remove the driver's door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect the 37P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
- Reconnect the driver's door harness to driver's door subharness.
- Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 7.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 13 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 15 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
14 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
25 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 3-4 (DR F/B STD) (60 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
32 BLK In all ignition switch positions or all power modes Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G402)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
37 BLK In all ignition switch positions or all power modes Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G401)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
16 RED Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON, POSITION 2 switch pressed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty driving position memory switch
- Poor ground (G402) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON, POSITION 2 switch released Measure the voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V. - Faulty driving position memory switch
- A short to ground in the wire
17 GRN Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON, POSITION 1 switch pressed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty driving position memory switch
- Poor ground (G402) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON, POSITION 1 switch released Measure the voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V. - Faulty driving position memory switch
- A short to ground in the wire
19 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON, SET switch pressed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Faulty driving position memory switch
- Poor ground (G402) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Ignition switch ON (II), or ignition mode ON, SET switch released Measure the voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V. - Faulty driving position memory switch
- A short to ground in the wire
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
- Disconnect the connector from the power window master switch, and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch (see REAR POWER WINDOW SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
NOTE:
After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit (see
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT
).
| Cavity | Wire | Test condition | Test: Desired result | Possible cause if desired result is not obtained |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4 | BLU | Under all conditions | Connect terminals No. 13 and No. 4 with a jumper wire: The driving position memory switch INDICATOR 2 should come on. |
|
| 6 | GRN | Under all conditions | Connect terminals No. 13 and No. 6 with a jumper wire: The driving position memory switch INDICATOR 1 should come on. |
|
| 26 | LT GRN | Under all conditions | Connect terminals No. 13 and No. 26 with a jumper wire: The driving position memory switch lights should come on. |
|
| 27 | BLU | Disconnect the front passenger's power window switch 37P connector and the panoramic glass roof control unit/motor 10P connector | Check for continuity between terminal No. 27 and front passenger's power window switch 37P connector terminal No. 29: There should be continuity. | An open in the UART wire |
| Check for continuity between terminal No. 27 and panoramic glass roof control unit/motor 10P connector terminal No. 7: There should be continuity. | An open in the UART wire | |||
| Check for continuity to ground: There should be no continuity. | A short to ground in the UART wire |
Factory Service Tools
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.
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