Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA2010TL FWD V6-3.5LREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISPOWER AND GROUND DISTRIBUTIONAUXILIARY POWER OUTLETSERVICE AND REPAIRFRONT ACCESSORY POWER SOCKET TEST/REPLACEMENT
2010 Acura TL FWD V6-3.5L
Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
2010 Acura TL FWD V6-3.5LSECTION Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
NOTE: If all of the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and ground (G403) first.
1. Remove the passenger's center trim Dashboard Center Trim Removal/Installation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY (I), or press the engine start/stop button to select the ACC mode:
- With keyless access system, go to step 5.
- Without keyless access system, go to step 6.
5. Measure the voltage between front accessory power socket relay terminal No. 3 and body ground. There should be less than 0.2 V.
- If there is less than 0.2 V, go to step 7.
- If there is more than 0.2 V, check for:
- An open or high resistance in the wire between front accessory power socket relay terminal No. 3 and ground (G601).
- Poor ground (G601) or an open in the ground wire.
6. Measure the voltage between driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector D (16P) terminal No. 14 and body ground. There should be less than 0.2 V.
- If there is less than 0.2 V, go to step 7.
- If there is more than 0.2 V, check for:
- An open or high resistance in the wire between driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector D (16P) terminal No. 14 and ground (G601).
- Poor ground (G601) or an open in the ground wire.
7. Measure the voltage between front accessory power socket 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
- If there is battery voltage, go to step 8.
- If there is no voltage, check for:
- A blown No. 23 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- A faulty front accessory power socket relay.
- A faulty faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- An open in the wire between front accessory power socket terminal No. 1 and driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector P (20P) terminal No. 1.
8. Check for continuity between front accessory power socket 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. There should be continuity.
- If there is continuity, replace the power socket; go to step 9.
- If there is no continuity, check for:
- Poor ground (G403).
- An open or high resistance in the wire between front accessory power socket 2P connector terminal No. 2 and ground (G403).
9. Remove the screw and socket base (A), then remove the socket (B).
10. Remove the housing (A) from the socket base (B).
11. Install the power socket in the reverse order of removal.
RENDER: 1.0x
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.