Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
SYS.OK|MANUAL.DBβ LIVE
HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA20043.5RLREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 49 (3.2L V6 ENGINE)REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONENGINEREMOVAL
2004 Acura 3.5RL
Removal & Installation: Engine: Removal
2004 Acura 3.5RLSECTION Removal
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2003 Acura 3.2CL, 2002 Acura 3.2CL, and 2001 Acura 3.2CL. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE:
- Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
- To avoid damage, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion.
- Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact other wiring or hoses, or interfere with other parts.
- Remove the support struts (A) from the engine hood. Move the hood to a vertical position, then reinstall the support strut. See Fig 1.
- Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
- Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then the positive cable.
- Remove the battery.
- Remove the intake manifold cover (if applicable). See Figure.
- Remove the water bypass hoses (A). See Figure. Disconnect the TCS control valve actuator connector (B) and the TCS control valve angle sensor connector (C) from the TCS control valve assembly, then remove the bolt (D) securing the TCS control valve bracket (J32A2 engine (A/T)).
- Remove the EVAP canister hose (A) from the throttle body. See Figure.
- Remove the vacuum hose (B) and breather pipe (C), then remove the intake air duct (D).
- Remove the harness clamp (A), then remove the battery base (B). See Fig 2.
- Remove the battery base bracket (C).
- Remove the starter cable (A) and ground cable (B). See Fig 3.
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder (A) and clutch line bracket mounting bolt (B). See Fig 4.
NOTE:
Do not attempt to close the hood with the support strut in the vertical position, as it will damage the support strut and hood.
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
Recommended Tools & Savings
Use the Manual With the Right Hardware
Pair factory procedures with proven DIY tools so the instructions are easier to execute.
Affiliate disclosure: We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.