Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Immobilizer Receiver & Transponder (Key)
2004 Acura 3.5RLSECTION Immobilizer Receiver & Transponder (Key)
NOTE:
Transponder (key) contains electronic circuits and is powered by a signal transmitted from immobilizer receiver. Key does not contain any serviceable components and must be replaced as a unit.
- Using a master or valet ignition key (transponder), turn ignition switch to ON position. If immobilizer indicator light starts flashing after about 2 seconds, go to next step. If immobilizer indicator light does not flash, see IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT INPUTΒ under SYSTEM TESTS.
- Using a different master or valet ignition key (transponder), try to start engine. If engine does not crank, go to step Β 4. If engine cranks but does not start, go to next step. If engine starts, replace first key (transponder) used.
- Check for an open in White wire between immobilizer 8-pin connector "A" terminal No. 6 and PCM 12-pin connector "C" terminal No. 11. See WIRING DIAGRAMSΒ . Repair as necessary and retest system. If White wire is okay, reprogram PCM using Honda PGM Tester and immobilizer program card according to manufacturer's instructions. Go to next step.
- Reprogram immobilizer control unit and PCM using Honda PGM Tester and immobilizer program card according to manufacturer's instructions. Using master or valet ignition key (transponder), try to start engine. If engine does not start, go to next step. If engine starts, immobilizer system is functioning properly.
- Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect immobilizer control unit 3-pin connector "B". See Fig 1. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between immobilizer control unit 3-pin connector "B" terminal No. 1 (White wire) and terminal No. 2 (Black wire), and between terminal No. 2 (Black wire) and terminal No. 3 (Orange wire). If continuity does not exist, go to next step. If continuity exists, shielded harness between immobilizer receiver and control unit is shorted. Replace shielded harness and retest system. See WIRING DIAGRAMSΒ .
- Measure resistance between immobilizer control unit 3-pin connector "B" terminal No. 1 (White wire) and No. 3 (Orange wire). If resistance is approximately 15 ohms, replace immobilizer control unit and retest system. If resistance is not as specified, check for an open in shielded harness between immobilizer receiver and control unit. If harness is okay, replace immobilizer receiver and retest system.
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.