Starting System: Testing and Inspection

1998 Acura CL V6-3.0L SOHC (VTEC)SECTION Testing and Inspection
NOTE: The air temperature must be between 59 and 100° F (15 and 38° C) before testing.

Recommended Procedure:
- Use a starter system tester.
- Connect and operate the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
- Test and troubleshoot as described.

Alternate Procedure:
- Use the following equipment:
- Ammeter, 0 - 400 A
- Voltmeter, 0 - 20 V (accurate within 0.1 volt)
- Tachometer, 0 - 1,200 rpm

Starting System-Starter Test:




- Hook up voltmeter and ammeter as shown.

NOTE: After this test, or any subsequent repair, reset the ECM to clear any codes.

Check Starter Engagement
1. Remove No. 33 (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
2. Turn the ignition switch to START (III) with the shift lever in [N] or [P] position. The starter should crank the engine.
- If the starter does not crank the engine, go to step 3.
- If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to "Check for Wear and Damage".
3. Check the battery, battery positive cable, ground, starter cut relay, and the wire connections for looseness and corrosion. Test again. If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to step 4.
4. Unplug the connector (BLK/WHT wire and solenoid terminal) from the starter.

Starting System-Starter Test:




5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) terminal to the solenoid terminal. The starter should crank the engine.
- If the starter still does not crank the engine, remove it, and diagnose its internal problem.
- If the starter cranks the engine, go to step 6.
6. Check the ignition switch.
7. Check the starter cut relay.
8. Check the A/T gear position switch.
9. Check for an open in the WHT/RED wire between the ignition switch and starter cut relay, and check for an open in the BLK/WHT wire between the starter cut relay and starter.

Check for Wear and Damage
The starter should crank the engine smoothly and steadily. If the starter engages, but cranks the engine erratically, remove it, and inspect the starter drive gear and torque converter ring gear for damage.

Check the drive gear overrunning clutch for binding or slipping when the armature is rotated with the drive gear held. If damaged, replace the gears.

Check Cranking Voltage and Current Draw
Cranking voltage should be no less than 8.5 volts. Current draw should be no more than 380 amperes.

If cranking voltage is too low, or current draw too high, check for:
- Dead or low battery
- Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
- Starter armature dragging
- Shorted armature winding
- Excessive drag in engine

Check Cranking rpm
Engine speed during cranking should be above 100 rpm.

If speed is too low, check for:
- Loose battery or starter terminals
- Excessively worn starter brushes
- Open circuit in commutator segments
- Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear
- Defective drive gear overrunning clutch

Check Starter Disengagement
With the shift lever in [P] or [N], turn the ignition switch to START (III), and release to ON (II). The starter drive gear should disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key.

If the drive gear hangs up on the torque converter ring gear, check for:
- Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction
- Dirty drive gear assembly or damaged overrunning clutch
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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • β€’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • β€’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • β€’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • β€’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • β€’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.