Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA1998CL V6-3.0L SOHC (VTEC)REPAIR AND DIAGNOSISBODY AND FRAMEMIRRORSTESTING AND INSPECTIONFUNCTION TEST
1998 Acura CL V6-3.0L SOHC (VTEC)
Function Test
1998 Acura CL V6-3.0L SOHC (VTEC)SECTION Function Test
1. Remove the driver's door panel.
2. Disconnect the 10P connector (and 2P connector: Canada) from the power mirror switch.
Mirror Test
Both inoperative:
1. Check for voltage between the No. 9 terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON (II).
There should be battery voltage.
^ If there is no battery voltage, check for:
- blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- an open in the YEL/BLK wire.
^ If there is battery voltage, go to step 2.
2. Check for continuity between the No. 10 terminal and body ground.
There should be continuity.
^ If there is no continuity, check for:
- an open in the BLK wire.
- poor ground (G401, G403).
^ If there is continuity, check both mirrors individually as described.
Left mirror inoperative:
Connect the No. 9 terminal of the 10P connector to the No. 7 terminal, and the No. 5 (or No. 4) terminal to body ground with jumper wires. The left mirror should tilt down (or swing left) with the ignition switch ON (II).
^ If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing left), check for an open in the BLU/WHT (or BLU/ORN) wire between the left mirror and the 10P connector. If the wire is OK, check the left mirror actuator.
^ If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair the BLU/GRN wire.
^ If the mirror works properly, check the mirror switch.
Right mirror inoperative:
Connect the No. 9 terminal of the 10P connector to the No. 6 terminal, and the No. 5 (or No. 3) terminal to body ground with jumper wires. The right mirror should tilt down (or swing left) with the ignition switch ON (II).
^ If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing left), check for an open in the BLU/WHT (or LT GRN) wire between the right mirror and the 10P connector.
If the wire is OK, check the right mirror actuator.
^ If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair the YEL/WHT wire.
^ If the mirror works properly, check the mirror switch.
Defogger test (Canada):
Connect the No. 11 and No. 12 terminals with a jumper wire, and check for voltage between the No. 11 terminal and body ground. There should be battery voltage and both mirrors should warm up with the ignition switch ON (II).
^ If there is no voltage or neither warms up, check for:
- an open in the YEL/BLK and ORN wires.
- blown No. 7 (7.5 A) in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- poor ground (G401, G403, G402, G404).
^ If only one fails to warm up, check its defogger.
^ If both fail to warm up, check the defogger switch.
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.