Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA19983.5RL SPECIAL EDITIONREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 17 (A/C-HEATER SYSTEM)TESTINGRECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR TESTING
1998 Acura 3.5RL Special Edition
RECIRCULATION Control Motor Testing
1998 Acura 3.5RL Special EditionSECTION RECIRCULATION Control Motor Testing
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 1998 Acura 3.2TL. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
- Disconnect recirculation control motor 4-pin connector. Connect battery voltage to recirculation control motor terminal No. 1 and ground terminal No. 2 and 4. See Fig 1 . If recirculation control motor runs smoothly, go to step 3).
- If recirculation control motor does not run, check recirculation control motor doors and linkage for smooth operation. If doors and linkage are okay, replace recirculation control motor.
- Disconnect terminal No. 2 and 4 from ground. If recirculation control motor does not stop at fresh or recirculated air position, replace recirculation control motor. If recirculation control motor stops at fresh or recirculated air position, motor is okay.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.