Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA19983.5RL SPECIAL EDITIONREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 16 (A/C-HEATER SYSTEM)TESTINGRECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR TESTING
1998 Acura 3.5RL Special Edition
RECIRCULATION Control Motor Testing
1998 Acura 3.5RL Special EditionSECTION RECIRCULATION Control Motor Testing
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 1998 Acura 2.5TL. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
- Disconnect recirculation control motor 4-pin connector. Connect battery voltage to recirculation control motor terminal No. 1 and ground terminal No. 2 and 4. See Fig 1 . If recirculation control motor runs smoothly, go to step 3).
- If recirculation control motor does not run, check recirculation control motor doors and linkage for smooth operation. If doors and linkage are okay, replace recirculation control motor.
- Disconnect terminal No. 2 and 4 from ground. If recirculation control motor does not stop at FRESH or RECIRCULATE, replace recirculation control motor. If recirculation control motor stops at FRESH or RECIRCULATE, motor is okay.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.