NOTE: Some models must first have other circuits such as tachometers and/or fuel control relay wiring isolated from Hall Control harness. For quick check procedures, see QUICK CHECK under the HALL GENERATOR CHECK title in this article.

Ensure the ignition coil and idle stabilizer are functioning. Be sure control unit connector is securely connected. DISCONNECT the 3-wire connector at distributor.
Connect voltmeter positive lead to ignition coil terminal 15. Attach negative lead to coil terminal No. 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. See Fig 1.

Fig 1: Checking Hall Control Unit Check voltage at ignition coil primary terminals.
Reading should be 2 volts, and then fall to 0 (zero) volts after 1-2 seconds. If not, replace control unit.
Leave voltmeter connected. Insert a metal pin with a jumper wire attached into the center contact of distributor harness connector (Green/White) wire. See Fig 2. With ignition on, briefly touch jumper wire to ground.

Fig 2: Checking Hall Control Unit Momentarily ground pin inserted in center terminal.
If voltage reading is not 5-6 volts, check wiring between control unit and Hall connecting plug. If okay, replace ignition control unit. Turn ignition off.
If system passed test, but problem still exists, check wiring harness for open circuit. If wiring checks okay, replace the Hall control unit.

When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

• You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.

• Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.

• The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.

• You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.

• You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.

Safety Warning

Hall Control Unit Check

Use the Manual With the Right Hardware

When to See a Mechanic