Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Active Control Engine Mount: Removal
- DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL NOTE: When disconnecting the cable, some systems need to be initialized after the cable is reconnected (See INITIALIZATION ).
- REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
- REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
- REMOVE COOL AIR INTAKE DUCT SEAL (See REMOVAL )
- REMOVE ENGINE ROOM SIDE COVER LH (See REMOVAL )
- REMOVE V-BANK COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY (See REMOVAL )
- REMOVE AIR CLEANER INLET ASSEMBLY (See REMOVAL )
- REMOVE NO. 1 AIR CLEANER INLET (See REMOVAL )
- REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET FR
HINT:
Securely support the automatic transaxle using a jack.
- Disconnect the 2 connectors and clamp.
- Remove the bolt and disconnect the earth cable.
- Remove the 4 bolts and engine mounting bracket FR.
- REMOVE ACTIVE CONTROL ENGINE MOUNT
- Remove the 3 nuts and active control engine mount.
- Remove the 2 nuts and acceleration sensor.
Use the Manual With the Right Hardware
Pair factory procedures with proven DIY tools so the instructions are easier to execute.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.
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