Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Removal & Installation: Removal
- Automatic transaxle is composed of delicate components. Be careful not to cause any damage on the component when assembling and disassembling.
- Maintain clean condition so that foreign substance does not get into the automatic transaxle.
- Use a coated apron, latex gloves, and stainless tray to prevent foreign substance from getting into the automatic transaxle.
- Shift the gear to N.NOTE: Use wheel chocks to prevent vehicle moved accidentally.
- Remove the engine room under cover.
(Refer to Engine Mechanical System - "ENGINE ROOM UNDER COVER ")
- Drain the coolant.
(Refer to Engine Mechanical System - "COOLANT ")
- Remove the ATF drain plug (A), allow the fluid to drain out and then reinstall the drain plug.
Tightening torque:
33.3 - 43.1 N.m (3.4 - 4.4 kgf.m, 24.6 - 31.8 lb.ft)
NOTE: The existing ATF drain plug gasket must be replaced with a new one (do not reuse). - Remove the battery.
(Refer to Body Electrical System - "BATTERY ")
- Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(Refer to Engine Mechanical System - "AIR CLEANER ")
- Remove the battery tray.
(Refer to Body Electrical System - "BATTERY ")
- Remove the wiring bracket bolts (A).
Tightening torque:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb.ft)
- Separate the ATF cooler hose (A).NOTE:
- Be careful not to cause any damage on the hose when tightening the clamp.
- Mount the clamp tightening part in the designated direction so that interference does not occur with the adjacent parts.
- After connecting the hose, check for oil leakage on the connecting part while the engine is on.
- Remove the ATF warmer.
(Refer to Automatic Transaxle Cooling System - "ATF WARMER ")
- Lift the vehicle after removing the valve body cover upper bolts (A).
Tightening torque:
11.8 - 13.7 N.m (1.2 - 1.4 kgf.m, 8.7 - 10.1 lb.ft)
- Remove the valve body cover (A) after removing the bolts.
Tightening torque:
11.8 - 13.7 N.m (1.2 - 1.4 kgf.m, 8.7 - 10.1 lb.ft)
- Separate the E module (A) after removing the bolts.
Tightening torque:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb.ft)
- Remove the valve body assembly (A) after removing the bolts.
Tightening torque:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb.ft)
NOTE: When installing the valve body, make sure that the pin (B) of the manual valve is inserted into the detent lever (A). - Disconnect the speed sensor connector (A).
- Disconnect the main connector (A).
- Remove the main connector fixing clip (A) after removing the bolt.
Tightening torque:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb.ft)
- Remove the main connector (A) by pushing it downward.
Use the Manual With the Right Hardware
Pair factory procedures with proven DIY tools so the instructions are easier to execute.
Disclosure: Verified tool recommendations may earn an affiliate commission at no cost to you.
When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.
Rather have a pro handle this?
A certified mobile mechanic comes to your home or office. They bring the tools, you stay comfortable. No tow truck, no waiting room, no surprises.
No obligation. See pricing before you book.