Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
2013 Honda Fit Base, Automatic TransFACTORY OEM SERVICE PROCEDURE
Power Window Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch.
- Remove the grip cover (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect the 22P connector (A) from the power window master switch.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the connector still disconnected, do these input tests at the following connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
NOTE: Before testing, make sure the No. 1 (7.5 A), No. 22 (7.5 A), and No. 60 (50 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay are OK.TEST CONDITION REFERENCE TABLECavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 3 BRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage between terminals No. 3 and No. 11: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 17 (20A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay (P/W)
- Faulty MICU
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
2 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 3 and No. 2, and terminals No. 1 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires:
The front passenger's window should open.- Blown No. 17 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- Faulty front passenger's power window switch
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
1 WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 3 and No. 1, and terminals No. 2 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires:
The front passenger's window should close.13 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 15 and No. 13, and terminals No. 14 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires:
The right rear window should close.- Blown No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty right rear power window motor
- Faulty right rear power window switch
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
14 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 15 and No. 14, and terminals No. 13 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires:
The right rear window should open.21 GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 20 and No. 21, and terminals No. 22 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires:
The left rear window should open.- Blown No. 19 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
22 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Connect terminals No. 20 and No. 22, and terminals No. 21 and No. 11 momentarily with jumper wires: The left rear window should close. 10 ORN Connect terminals No. 4 and No. 10, and terminals No. 9 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation:
The driver's window should close.- Blown No. 3 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
9 BLU Connect terminals No. 4 and No. 9, and terminals No. 10 and No. 12 momentarily with jumper wires Check driver's power window motor operation:
The driver's window should open. - Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do these input tests at the following connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).TEST CONDITION REFERENCE TABLECavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 7 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty power window master switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
16 WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Faulty power window master switch
- A short to ground in the wire
5 GRN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 5 and No. 7:
An analog voltmeter should read about 0 V-about 5 V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).- Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
6 PNK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 6 and No. 7: An analog voltmeter should read about 0 V-about 5 V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves). 4 GRY Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 3 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
3 BRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 17 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay (P/W)
- Faulty MICU
- An open or high resistance in the wire
15 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay (P/W)
- Faulty MICU
- An open or high resistance in the wire
20 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 19 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay (P/W)
- Faulty MICU
- An open or high resistance in the wire
11 BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
12 BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
Factory Service Tools
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.
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