Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSHONDA2009S2000 BASEREPAIR AND DIAGNOSIS (SINGLE PAGE)BODY & FRAMEDOOR LOCKSIMMOBILIZER SYSTEMIMOES UNIT INPUT TEST/ REPLACEMENT'08-09 MODEL
2009 Honda S2000 Base
'08-09 model
2009 Honda S2000 BaseSECTION '08-09 model
- Remove the blower motor.
- Remove the bolt (A) from the imoes unit bracket (B).
- Remove the imoes unit (C) from the imoes unit bracket.
- Disconnect the 5P connector (D) from the imoes unit.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.
- With the connectors still disconnected, do these input tests at the following connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, replace the imoes unit, then do the imoes unit registration with the HDS, and make sure the immobilizer indicator blinks correctly.IMOES UNIT INPUT TEST CHART
Cavity Wire (Signal) Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 5 WHT/RED (+B) Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 54 (30 A) fuse in the main under- hood fuse/relay box
- Blown No. 25 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
3 BLK/YEL (IG 1) Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 2 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
1 GRN/WHT (LG 3) Jump the SCS line with the HDS. Disconnect ECM connector E (31P). Check for continuity between terminal No. 1 and ECM connector E (31P) terminal No. 3: There should be continuity. An open in the wire 4 RED/WHT (KEY SW) Ignition key is in the ignition switch Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. - Faulty ignition key switch
- An open in the wire
- Poor ground (G401)
4 RED/WHT (KEY SW) Ignition switch LOCK (0), and the ignition key removed from the ignition switch Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. Measure the voltage to ground: There should be more than 5V. - Faulty ignition key switch
- A short to ground in the wire
2 RED/BLU (IMOCD (S-Net)) SCS line with the HDS. Disconnect ECM connector E (31P), and immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 and ECM connector E (31P) terminal No. 27: There should be continuity, and immobilizer control unit-receiver terminal No. 2 An open in the wire 2 RED/BLU (IMOCD (S-Net)) SCS line with the HDS. Disconnect ECM connector E (31P), and immobilizer control unit-receiver 7P connector Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 and body ground: There should be no continuity. A short to ground in the wire
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.