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NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations.

Remove the instrument panel (see INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the master switch (B).

Fig 1: Disconnecting 14P Connector From Master Switch
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.

With the connectors still disconnected, make this input test at the connector.

If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If the input test proves OK, go to step 5.

CONNECTOR INPUT TEST REFERENCE

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
5	RED/YEL	Connect the No. 4 and No. 5 terminals, and the No. 6 and No. 14 terminals, then turn the ignition switch ON (II).	Check for driver's window motor operation: It should run (the driver's window moves down)	Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire
6	RED/BLK			Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire
7	BLU/RED	Connect the No. 8 and No. 9 terminals, and the No. 7 and No. 2 terminals, then turn the ignition switch ON (II).	Check for passenger's window motor operation: It should run (the passenger's window moves down).	Faulty passenger's window motor Faulty passenger's window switch An open in the wire
9	BLU/WHT
10	RED/BLK	Combination light switch ON	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 15(10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty combination light switch Faulty taillight relay An open in the wire
11	RED	Combination light switch ON	Connect to ground: The dash lights should come on full bright.	An open in the wire

Reconnect the connectors to the switch, and make these input tests at the appropriate connectors.

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the power window master switch must be faulty, replace the switch.

CONNECTOR INPUT TEST REFERENCE

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
2	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G401, G402) An open in the wire
14	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G401, G402) An open in the wire
4	GRN/WHT	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 17 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box Blown No. 10 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
3	YEL	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
8	GRN/BLK	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Blown No. 8 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window relay An open in the wire
12	BLU	Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's window switch in the AUTO DOWN position	Check for voltage between the No. 12 and No. 13 terminals: With an analog voltmeter, there should be 0 to about 3 V to 0 to about 3 V repeatedly. (The ohmmeter needle should move back and forth alternately.) With a digital voltmeter, there should be a steady 1.5-2.0 V.	Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire
13	LT GRN			Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire

Safety Warning

Master Switch Input Test