Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
Chart A-3, Cranks But Won't Run: Notes
The ECM uses a crank angle sensor input signal to produce ignition pulses through externally mounted ignitor. Ignitor is mounted on right side of firewall in engine compartment. Power for ignition coil and ignitor is provided through 15-amp ignition/meter fuse located in fuel block, below left side of steering column.
Fuse receives power with ignition on. As rotating signal rotor passes pole piece of crank angle sensor, reference signal is sent to ECM. ECM uses reference signal to determine when to signal ignitor to open ground circuit for primary ignition.
- This Checks for trouble codes. If Code 41 or 42 exists, a no-start condition will result. For additional information on retrieving trouble codes, see appropriate TESTS W/CODES article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
- This checks for available spark.
- Checks for defective distributor cap, rotor or spark plugs.
- Ensure battery voltage exists at ignition coil.
- This verifies fuel injector is operating.
- If voltage does not exist, check for defective ignition/meter fuse or open circuit in Black/White wire.
- This ensures a signal exists from ignitor to ignition coil.
- This checks for defective ignition coil.
- Checks for a short circuit in Brown/White wire or a defective ignitor.
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.