Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
2007 Acura TL BaseFACTORY OEM SERVICE PROCEDURE
Front Passenger's Power Window Switch Input Test
NOTE:
Make sure the ignition switch is OFF before disconnecting the passenger's power window switch.
- Before testing the power windows, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
- Remove the front passenger's power window switch (see PASSENGER'S POWER WINDOW SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENTΒ ).
- Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the front passenger's power window switch (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
- With the front passenger's power window switch still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.WIRE TEST CONDITION REFERENCE
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 1 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal and under-dash fuse/relay box connector P (30P) terminal No. 12:
There should be continuity.An open in the wire 9 WHT/GRN Connect No. 9 terminal to ground Measure the voltage at under-dash fuse/relay box No. 24 (20 A) fuse:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/ relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open in the wire
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
12 RED Connect the No. 11 terminal to the No. 12 terminal with a jumper wire, and connect the No. 13 terminal to body ground. Check front passenger's power window motor operation:
The window should go down.- Blown No. 26 (30 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open in the wire
13 RED/BLU Connect the No. 11 terminal to the No. 13 terminal with a jumper wire, and connect the No. 12 terminal to body ground. Check front passenger's power window motor operation:
The window should go up.
- Reconnect the 14P connector to the switch. Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and perform the following input tests.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the front passenger's power window switch.WIRE TEST CONDITION REFERENCE
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 2 ORN Ignition switch ON (ID Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Faulty front passenger's power window switch
- A short to ground in the wire
10 LT GRN Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be 0.5 V or less.Faulty front passenger's power window switch 3 WHT/RED Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open in the wire
11 GRN/BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/ relay box
- Blown No. 26 (30 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open in the wire
14 BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.5 V.- Poor ground (G506)
- An open in the wire
8 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II), and front passenger's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between the No. 8 and No. 10 terminals: There should be 0 V-about 5V-0V-about 5V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Blown No. 26 (30 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire (RED/ WHT, BLU, LT GRN, ORN)
- Faulty front passenger's power window switch
- Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- A short to ground in the wire
7 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and front passenger's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between the No. 7 and No. 10 terminals:
There should be 0 V-about 5V-0V-about 5V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
- Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNITΒ ).
Factory Service Tools
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- β’ You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- β’ Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- β’ The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- β’ You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- β’ You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.
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