2003 Acura RSX Base, AutomaticFACTORY OEM SERVICE PROCEDURE

Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations.
  1. Remove the switch panel from the door panel (see DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
  2. Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the master switch (A).
    Fig 1: Disconnecting 14P Connector From Master Switch
    G03653177Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
  4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
      INPUT TEST (CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED)

      Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
      10 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground:
      There should be continuity.
      • Poor ground (G401)
      • An open in the wire
      14
      12 YEL/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open in the wire
      11 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 23 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open in the wire
      2 GRN/BLK Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 13 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
      • Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Blown No. 22 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty power window relay
      • Faulty power window relay ground or wire
      • An open in the wire
      4 RED/BLK Connect the No. 7 and No. 11 terminals, and the No. 4 and No. 14 terminals. Check for driver's window motor operation:
      It should run (the driver's window moves down).
      • Poor ground (G401)
      • Faulty driver's window motor
      • An open in the wire
      7 RED/YEL
      1 BLU/WHT Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, and the No. 3 and No. 10 terminals, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for passenger's window motor operation:
      It should run (the passenger's window moves down).
      • Poor ground (G401)
      • Fault passenger's window motor
      • Fault passenger's window switch
      • An open in the wire
      3 BLU/RED
  5. Reconnect the 14P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.
      INPUT TEST (CONNECTOR CONNECTED)

      Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
      5 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
      There should be 5 V or more.
      • Faulty power window master switch
      • Short to ground in the wire
      6 LT GRN Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground:
      There should be less than 1 V.      		 An open in the wire
      13 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN Check for voltage between the No. 13 and No. 6 terminals:
      There should be 0 V - about 5 V-0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
      • Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Blown No. 23 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty power window relay
      • Faulty power window master switch
      • Short to ground in the wire
      8 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN Check for voltage between the No. 8 and No. 6 terminals:
      There should be 0 V - about 5 V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.

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