Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSACURA19983.5RL SPECIAL EDITIONREPAIR AND DIAGNOSIS (SINGLE PAGE)EXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 20 (MULTIPLEX CONTROL SYSTEM)SYSTEM TESTSPOWER & GROUND TESTSDRIVER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT
1998 Acura 3.5RL Special Edition
Driver's Multiplex Control Unit
1998 Acura 3.5RL Special EditionSECTION Driver's Multiplex Control Unit
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 1997 Acura 3.5RL. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
- Remove fuse/relay box located under instrument panel. See INSTRUMENT PANEL FUSE/RELAY BOX under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect driver's multiplex control unit from instrument panel fuse/relay box. See Fig 1 . Ensure terminals of connectors are okay and making proper contact. Repair connector terminals as necessary and retest system. If connector terminals are okay, go to next step.
- Using a voltmeter, probe between fuse/relay box 14-pin connector terminal A7 and ground. See Fig 1 . See DRIVER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION table. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, check fuse No. 56 (7.5-amp) located in fuse/relay box in engine compartment. If fuse is okay, check for open in White/Yellow wire between fuse No. 56 and driver's multiplex control unit.
- Ensure ignition is off. Using an ohmmeter, probe between fuse/relay box 14-pin connector terminal A8 and ground. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, check for an open in Black wire between fuse/relay box and ground connection or a bad ground connection.
- Turn ignition switch to ON position. Using a voltmeter, probe between fuse/relay box 14-pin connector terminal A13 and ground. If battery voltage does not exist, check fuse No. 13 (7.5-amp), located in fuse/relay box under instrument panel. If fuse is okay, check for an open in fuse/relay box circuit between fuse No. 13 and terminal A13. Repair circuit as necessary. If circuit is okay, replace driver's multiplex control unit.
DRIVER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION
| Terminal (Wire Color) (1) | Circuit | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 14-Pin Connector (2) | ||||||||||
| A2 | Wiper Park Position Input | |||||||||
| A4 | Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Input | |||||||||
| A7 | Battery Input | |||||||||
| A8 | Ground | |||||||||
| A10 | Multiplex Control Inspection Connector Input | |||||||||
| A11 | Power Window Relay Control | |||||||||
| A13 | Ignition Input | |||||||||
| Gray 26-Pin Connector | ||||||||||
| B2 (BLK/RED) | Key Interlock Switch Input | |||||||||
| B4 (RED/GRN) | Lights-On Input/Taillight Relay Control | |||||||||
| B5 (GRN) | Intermittent ON Input | |||||||||
| B6 (GRN/YEL) | Intermittent Dwell Timer Input | |||||||||
| B7 (WHT) | Security Indicator Control | |||||||||
| B8 (ORG) | Horn Control | |||||||||
| B9 (BRN/WHT) | D-A Line | |||||||||
| B10 (PNK/BLU) | Wake-Up | |||||||||
| B12 (GRN/WHT) | Brake Switch Input | |||||||||
| B13 (WHT/RED) | Key Interlock Solenoid Control | |||||||||
| B15 (PNK) | Keyless Buzzer Control | |||||||||
| B16 (BLU/RED) | Headlight Relay Control | |||||||||
| B18 (GRN/RED) | Intermittent Wiper Control | |||||||||
| B19 (GRN/WHT) | Intermittent Dwell Timer Input | |||||||||
| B20 (BLK/WHT) | Wiper ON Input | |||||||||
| B22 (RED/YEL) | A-D Line | |||||||||
| B23 (BRN/YEL) | Door D-Line | |||||||||
| B25 (WHT/BLK) | Ignition Key Light Control | |||||||||
| B26 (WHT/GRN) | Shift Lock Circuit Input | |||||||||
| Gray 16-Pin Connector | ||||||||||
| C2 (BLK/BLU) | Park Position Switch | |||||||||
| C3 (LT GRN) | Instrument Cluster Illumination Brightness Control | |||||||||
| C5 (WHT/BLK) | Parking Pin Switch Input | |||||||||
| C6 (YEL/GRN) | Left Rear Power Window Control | |||||||||
| C7 (GRY) | Left Rear Lock Knob Switch Input | |||||||||
| C8 (GRN/ORG) | Trunk Key Cylinder Switch Input | |||||||||
| C9 (BLU/WHT) | Ignition Key Switch Input | |||||||||
| C10 (GRN) | Shift Lock Solenoid Control | |||||||||
| C11 (BLU/BLK) | Instrument Cluster Illumination Brightness Controller | |||||||||
| C13 (RED/BLU) | Driver's Seat Belt Switch Input | |||||||||
| C14 (YEL) | Left Rear Power Window Control | |||||||||
| C15 (GRN/YEL) | Left Rear Door Switch Input | |||||||||
| C16 (GRN/WHT) (3) | Parking Brake Switch Input | |||||||||
| C16 (GRN/RED) (4) | Parking Brake Switch Input | |||||||||
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.